Stop Guessing Your Limiters.
Start Climbing With Purpose.
Climbing performance testing and coaching grounded in exercise physiology. Measure strength, power, and endurance, then interpret those results alongside what happens on the wall.
MSc Human Health & Nutritional Sciences • U of Guelph
MSc Human Health & Nutritional Sciences
University of Guelph
CSI Ontario
Exercise Physiologist
Climbing Research
Two peer-reviewed climbing studies
Climbing Escalade Canada
Physiology education and testing consultation
Why Most Climbers Train the Wrong Limiters
A test can show whether measured strength, power, or endurance changed. It cannot diagnose every reason for a fall. Ben combines repeatable physical tests with technical and tactical context from the athlete and coach.
Maximum Force vs. Fast Force
Maximum finger force and rate of force development answer different questions. RFD is calculated from the force-time curve or from force reached at set time points, such as 100 and 200 milliseconds.
Strength, Power & Endurance
Finger and ring pulls assess strength; pull-up velocity and vertical jump assess power; practical fatigue tests or critical-force analysis assess endurance. Together they provide a broader profile than one score alone.
Test, Train, Retest
Repeat testing can show whether training changed the intended physical quality. On-wall improvement without a matching physical change may instead reflect technical or tactical progress.
Structured Coaching Plans
Physical testing, report interpretation, and customized training support. Free travel at Hogtown Bouldering.
Basic Plan
Foundational physical profiling for boulderers. We assess your vertical jumping power and core foundational strength benchmarks to identify neuromuscular and strength baselines.
- Vertical jump & countermovement jump assessment (lower body power)
- Upper-body basic strength & pulling baseline benchmarks
- Body composition & strength-to-weight ratio profiling
Standard Plan
Comprehensive physical and sport-specific testing battery. Includes everything in the Basic Plan plus critical baseline testing customized to your bouldering training requirements.
- Everything included in the Basic Plan (Vertical Jump & Basic Strength)
- Max isometric finger strength testing on standardized 20mm edge (half crimp & open hand)
- Rate of Force Development (RFD) baseline and pulling capacity curve
Premium Plan
Standard Plan plus specialized testing utilizing precision laboratory equipment. Features 90 minutes of intensive diagnostic testing followed by a dedicated 30-minute strategy debrief.
- Everything included in the Standard Plan (Basic + Critical Baselines)
- Specialized load-cell digital force plate & high-resolution finger recruitment curve
- Rate of Force Development (RFD under 200ms contact recruitment)
Custom Strength Training Plan
Individualized 4-week periodized strength cycles built around your specific bouldering projects. Includes full onboarding setup ($150) and continuous monthly plan delivery ($90/month). Note: Extra support or revisions for changes to the plan are billed separately.
- Comprehensive intake analysis of climbing history, project grades & schedule
- Structured 4-week microcycles (board climbing, finger loading, power endurance)
- 20mm edge hangboard load progression & system board workouts (Kilter/Tension/spray)
Upgrade your session with Endurance Testing (+$40) or a 1-Hour Check-up (50% off $45). Coach Ben also provides Coach's Corner Consultations ($90) and Team Workshops ($800+).
Testing Across Toronto, GTA & Southern Ontario
In-person testing can take place at climbing facilities across Toronto, the GTA, and Southern Ontario. Travel is free at Hogtown Bouldering; other locations use the rates shown below.
Hogtown & Toronto Core
Meet at Hogtown Bouldering for zero travel surcharge! Available at other downtown gyms.
Greater Toronto Area
Standard flat travel rate across the GTA is $80 CAD. Can be split among multiple climbers.
Outside GTA & Crags
Outside the GTA? Coach Ben can come to your climbing gym or another agreed training location for $60/hr + 72¢/km in travel costs.
Ben McKellar, MSc
I’m an Exercise Physiologist at the Canadian Sport Institute Ontario and an MSc graduate of the University of Guelph’s Human Performance and Health Research Laboratory.
I have coached at Boulder Parc and Up The Bloc, supported Climbing Escalade Canada projects, and presented on climbing physiology at its 2024 High Performance Competition. My published research covers time-management strategies in World Cup bouldering finals and blood-flow-restriction training in climbing.
- ✓MSc Human Health & Nutritional Sciences (U of Guelph)
- ✓Exercise Physiologist, CSI Ontario
- ✓Climbing Escalade Canada project experience
- ✓Published climbing researcher